Allantoin: The Quiet Soother for Rough Skin
Active Ingredients Glossary · A
INCI: Allantoin
Allantoin is found in countless creams, masks, and deodorants—usually near the bottom of the INCI list and rarely in the spotlight. Unfairly so: This unassuming active ingredient is considered very well-tolerated and helps rough, dry skin feel smoother and calmer again.
What is allantoin?
Allantoin is a small, nitrogen-containing compound that occurs naturally in comfrey root, wheat germ, and sugar beets, among other sources. For cosmetic use, it is now usually produced synthetically—this yields a pure raw material of consistent quality that is chemically identical to its natural counterpart. As a white, odorless powder, it can be incorporated into almost any formula: from face creams to sheet masks to deodorant.
Allantoin also owes its reputation to the comfrey tradition, as comfrey poultices are an old home remedy. In the U.S., allantoin is also listed by the FDA as a skin protectant—an indication that it has been widely used for decades and is classified as safe.
Effectiveness: What's Proven
Three out of five bars: Allantoin's tolerability is very well documented; its efficacy is solid but not spectacular. It is primarily described as having a smoothing effect: Allantoin is considered mildly keratolytic, meaning it gently softens the outermost layer of the skin, so that rough, flaky areas feel softer. It also has a soothing effect, which makes allantoin a popular companion ingredient in products containing acids, retinoids, or activated charcoal.
To be fair: Many studies test allantoin in combination with other active ingredients such as panthenol or glycerin. It is therefore often difficult to determine exactly how much of the effect is attributable to allantoin alone. However, allantoin's role as a team player that makes a formula more pleasant and better tolerated is undisputed.
Usage & Combination
There are no hard and fast rules for allantoin: You can use it in the morning and at night, on your face, hands, feet, and under your arms. It's particularly beneficial wherever the skin is stressed—on rough heels, after shaving, or to balance out active ingredients in a mask. In O'KEEFFE'S Healthy Feet Foot Cream, allantoin is listed fourth on the INCI list and plays a key role in the formula.
Pairs well with
✓ Panthenol—the classic duo for stressed skin
✓ Glycerin & hyaluronic acid – hydration plus smoothing
✓ Retinoids & acids – allantoin makes the formula more pleasant
Note
! Allantoin nourishes the skin but is not a substitute for medical treatment in cases of skin conditions
! If it appears far down the INCI list, it's more of a supporting ingredient than a key active ingredient
! Do not apply cosmetics to open wounds
Allantoin in the BONSANA lineup
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Gentle Care for Stressed Skin
Creams, masks, and skincare products with allantoin, panthenol, and more—shipped from our Swiss warehouse, delivered quickly to you.
View the Sensitive Skin Collection →Frequently Asked Questions About Allantoin
Is allantoin natural or synthetic?
Allantoin occurs naturally, for example in comfrey root. In cosmetics today, it is usually produced synthetically. The substance is chemically identical but is purer and available in consistent quality.
Is allantoin suitable for sensitive skin?
Yes. Allantoin is considered very well-tolerated and is often included in products for sensitive skin for this very reason. Adverse reactions are rare, but if you've ever had a reaction before, you should avoid it.
Can I combine allantoin with retinol or acids?
Yes, this is actually a popular combination. Allantoin can help soothe the skin while retinoids or fruit acids are working. It does not counteract their effects.
How much allantoin is in cosmetics?
Usually between 0.1 and 2 percent. Because even small amounts are sufficient, allantoin often appears in the second half of the INCI list.
