Licorice: Calming Properties from the Licorice Root
Active Ingredients Glossary · S
INCI: Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
You know licorice root as licorice. In skincare, it provides some of the most popular soothing ingredients in Korean cosmetics. You’ll most often come across a rather unwieldy name in the INCI list: Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate.
What is licorice?
Licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra and related species) is a plant from the legume family whose root has been used for centuries. In cosmetics, two groups of compounds are of particular interest: glycyrrhizic acid, which is usually used as the potassium salt dipotassium glycyrrhizate, and flavonoids such as glabridin found in the root extract.
The distinction is important: Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate is a clearly defined single compound that is water-soluble and easy to process. Licorice root extract, on the other hand, is a mixture whose composition varies depending on the manufacturing process.
Effects: What the Evidence Shows
Three out of five bars: For dipotassium glycyrrhizate, there are laboratory studies and small-scale application studies showing a soothing effect—the skin appears less red and feels more comfortable. Regarding licorice root extract containing glabridin, there is also discussion that it may help promote a more even complexion. However, this data comes primarily from laboratory studies or small-scale trials.
Honest assessment: Licorice is a reliable, well-tolerated soothing agent and is therefore a standard ingredient in many masks. However, large independent studies are lacking, and the amount in finished products is usually low.
Usage & Combination
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate fits into any skincare routine and is particularly suitable for products that place some demands on the skin, such as masks containing vitamin C or acids. In SKIN REPUBLIC’s Collagen Sheet Mask, it appears ninth on the INCI list. It also appears in hair care products, such as KUNDAL’s Honey & Macadamia Treatment.
Pairs well with
✓ Niacinamide – together for a calm, even complexion
✓ Vitamin C – licorice makes the formula more pleasant
✓ Chamomile & Cica – gentle soothing agents that complement each other
Note
! Using licorice-based skincare is not the same as eating licorice—the well-known warnings apply to consumption
! Extract compositions may vary; results are not guaranteed
! Avoid licorice if you have a known intolerance
Licorice in the BONSANA lineup
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Soothing Skincare
Masks and skincare products with licorice, centella asiatica, niacinamide, and more—shipped from our Swiss warehouse, delivered quickly to you.
View the facial care collection →Frequently Asked Questions About Licorice
What is dipotassium glycyrrhizate?
The potassium salt of glycyrrhizic acid derived from licorice root. It is water-soluble, well-tolerated, and is primarily used in cosmetics as a soothing agent.
Is licorice in cosmetics the same as the candy?
Both come from the same root. However, the well-known warnings about licorice refer to consuming large amounts, not to skin care products.
Can licorice lighten pigment spots?
There isn’t sufficient evidence to support this. There is some evidence, particularly regarding glabridin from the root extract. Dipotassium glycyrrhizate is primarily used for its soothing properties.
Can I combine licorice with vitamin C or acids?
Yes. Licorice active ingredients are considered to combine well and are often added to products containing vitamin C or acids precisely to make the formula more pleasant.
