Fragrances & Allergens: What's Behind "Parfum"

Active Ingredients Glossary · D

INCI: Parfum / Fragrance · Limonene · Linalool · Citral

A scent often determines whether we enjoy using a product. At the same time, fragrances are among the most common triggers of contact allergies in cosmetics. Both are true—which is why it’s worth taking a closer look at what lies behind “Parfum” and the names at the end of the INCI list.

What are fragrances?

In the INCI, “Parfum” or “Fragrance” usually refers to a mixture of many individual fragrance molecules, both natural and synthetic. A manufacturer may treat the exact composition as a trade secret. In lip care products, “Aroma” is often listed because the scent also serves as a flavor. Fragrances also mask the natural odor of oils or active ingredients that would otherwise not smell particularly pleasant.

At the end of many INCI lists, you’ll find names like limonene, linalool, citral, or hexyl cinnamal. These are individual fragrances that are considered known contact allergens. Incidentally, they’re also found in essential oils: limonene, for example, occurs naturally in citrus peels, and linalool in lavender.

What the Rules Say

The EU Cosmetics Regulation, which Switzerland closely follows, requires that certain allergenic fragrances be listed individually on the packaging as soon as they exceed a specified amount. For a long time, there were 26 substances on the list; the EU has since significantly expanded it, with transition periods for manufacturers. A few fragrances are restricted or completely banned. The declaration is not a warning to everyone, but rather information for people who already know what they are sensitive to.

For those who prefer fragrance-free products

Four out of five bars: Fragrances have been well researched, and for most people, scented products pose no problem. However, those with a known fragrance allergy, a tendency toward eczema, or very sensitive skin are better off using fragrance-free products. This is especially true for skincare products that remain on the skin for a long time—lotions, face creams, and lip balms. With shower gels and shampoos, the contact time is shorter.

Fragrances in the BONSANA lineup—for example

Frequently Asked Questions About Fragrances & Allergens

What does “Parfum” mean in the INCI list?

“Parfum” or “Fragrance” refers to a blend of many individual fragrance ingredients. The exact formula may remain a secret, but known allergens must be listed individually once they exceed a certain concentration.

Why are limonene and linalool listed on the packaging?

Because they are fragrance allergens that must be declared. This information helps people with known allergies find suitable products. For everyone else, it is not a warning sign.

Who should choose fragrance-free cosmetics?

People with a known fragrance allergy, a tendency toward eczema, or very sensitive skin. Especially for skincare products that remain on the skin for a long time, fragrance-free is the safer choice.

Are natural fragrances better tolerated?

Not necessarily. Essential oils contain the same allergenic fragrance molecules as many synthetic perfumes—for example, limonene in citrus oil. For people with allergies, it’s the individual substance that matters, not its source.