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AHA

AHA Fruit Acids: Exfoliation Without Rubbing

Bonsana Redaktion
AHA Fruit Acids: three clear gel drops on a gray pedestal, with blurred citrus fruit slices in the background

Active Ingredients Glossary · A

INCI: Alpha Hydroxy Acids (Glycolic/Lactic Acid)

AHA fruit acids chemically dissolve dead skin cells—without scrubbing or exfoliating granules. The result is smoother, fresher skin. Hardly any other group of active ingredients has been studied as thoroughly as alpha hydroxy acids—and hardly any other requires such strict adherence to one rule: exfoliate in the evening, use sunscreen during the day.

Fact Sheet
Research Findings
Effective against rough skin, dull complexion, pigmentation spots, and clogged pores
Skin Type Normal, oily, mature skin; sensitive skin: PHA is preferable
Concentration 5–10%, up to 20% as an intensive treatment
Routine: In the evening, 1–3 times per week
Taper-in period: Yes—increase gradually; SPF required

What are AHA fruit acids?

AHA stands for alpha hydroxy acids—a family of water-soluble acids originally derived from fruits, milk, and sugarcane. The most important ones are glycolic acid, the smallest molecule with the deepest effect, and lactic acid, the gentler variant that also provides moisture. All AHAs work on the same principle: they loosen the “cement-like substance” between dead skin cells, allowing them to shed and revealing the fresher skin underneath.

The key distinction: AHA is not BHA. AHAs are water-soluble and work on the skin’s surface—ideal for rough skin, a dull complexion, and pigmentation spots. Salicylic acid (BHA) is oil-soluble and penetrates the pores—the first choice for blackheads and blemishes. And what about PHAs? These are the gentlest options for sensitive skin. If you need both, alternate between the acids instead of layering them all at once.

Effectiveness: What the Evidence Shows

A full five bars—alpha hydroxy acids are among the most thoroughly researched cosmetic active ingredients of all. Clinical studies spanning decades show: a smoother skin surface, a more even complexion, lighter pigmentation spots, and a finer skin texture—depending on the concentration and pH level of the formula. AHAs are also well-established for use beyond the face: from body care products for rough patches to foot masks that help peel away large chunks of calloused skin from the heels.

Application & Combination

AHAs belong in your evening routine: apply to cleansed, dry skin, starting once a week and then gradually increasing the frequency. A slight tingling sensation is normal, but a burning sensation is not—if you experience burning, rinse it off immediately. Sun protection is non-negotiable: AHAs make the skin more sensitive to the sun for days after application, so SPF 30+ is mandatory during the day.

Pairs well with

✓ Moisturize afterward—glycerin, hyaluronic acid, and ceramides soothe the skin after exfoliation

✓ Niacinamide—ideal on non-exfoliation days or as a soothing final step

✓ PHAs—the gentle alternative if your skin is more sensitive

Note

! Do not combine with retinol, vitamin C, or BHA in the same step—this can overwhelm your skin

! Without sunscreen, you risk developing the very same dark spots you’re trying to get rid of

! Do not apply to irritated or broken skin

AHA in the BONSANA lineup

Available in-store

Gently exfoliate, cleanse more thoroughly

AHA exfoliants, cleansers, and masks—tested products, ready to ship from our Swiss warehouse.

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Frequently Asked Questions About AHA Fruit Acids

What is the difference between AHA and BHA?

AHAs are water-soluble and exfoliate the skin’s surface—ideal for rough skin, a dull complexion, and pigmentation spots. BHA (salicylic acid) is oil-soluble, penetrates the pores, and is the first choice for blackheads and blemishes. Both can be alternated in a skincare routine but should not be combined in the same step.

How often can I use an AHA exfoliant?

Start with one application per week and increase to a maximum of two to three, depending on how well your skin tolerates it. More than that won’t provide better results—it will just cause more irritation. Your skin needs time to regenerate between exfoliations.

Why do I need sunscreen after an AHA peel?

AHAs remove the outermost layer of skin cells, making your skin more sensitive to UV rays for several days. Without SPF 30+, you risk sunburn and new dark spots—exactly what you’re trying to prevent by exfoliating.

Which AHA is best for beginners?

Lactic acid is the gentlest option among the classic AHAs; PHA formulas are even milder. Glycolic acid is the strongest and is suitable once your skin is well-accustomed to acids—or in combination products like AHA/PHA formulas with a balanced blend.

Keywords: AHA Peeling Wirkstoff-Lexikon
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