Goji berry: Red berry, plays a minor role in the formula

Active Ingredients Glossary · G

INCI: Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract · Lycium Barbarum Seed Oil

You're probably familiar with goji berries from your muesli. In skincare, they appear as fruit extract or seed oil—usually alongside many other plant-based ingredients. Here, we'll take a sober look at what this little red berry really brings to the table.

What is the goji berry?

The goji berry—also known as the wolfberry—comes from the common wolfberry, Lycium barbarum, a shrub primarily cultivated in China. It has long been a staple in East Asian cuisine. It owes its orange-red color to carotenoids such as zeaxanthin; it also contains polyphenols and a group of sugar-protein compounds referred to in research as Lycium barbarum polysaccharides.

On the INCI list, you'll find two forms: Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract, the fruit extract containing the water-soluble components, and Lycium Barbarum Seed Oil, an oil derived from the seeds that primarily provides nourishing fatty acids—for example, in lip care products.

Effects: What's Been Proven

Two out of five bars. In the lab, goji extracts demonstrate antioxidant properties, and some cell studies suggest protective effects against UV-induced oxidative stress. This is interesting, but still a long way from everyday use: there are hardly any controlled studies in which goji extract has been tested as a cosmetic on human skin. Moreover, many well-known studies refer to eating or drinking the berry—which cannot be applied to a lotion.

To put it fairly: Goji plays a supporting role in skincare products. In the products listed below, the extract appears far down the INCI list, behind well-researched active ingredients such as niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, or retinol. It can round out the formula as an antioxidant—but others do the heavy lifting.

Application & Combination

Goji doesn't require a build-up period and doesn't make the skin more sensitive to the sun. How often you use a product containing goji depends on the main active ingredients: A body serum with hyaluronic acid can be used daily, while a lotion with retinol should be introduced gradually—preferably in the evening—and you should use sunscreen during the day.

Goji berries in the BONSANA lineup

Frequently Asked Questions About Goji Berries

What does goji extract do in cosmetics?

Goji extract adds antioxidants such as carotenoids and polyphenols to the formula. In the lab, they neutralize free radicals; this is plausible for the skin, but has hardly been studied. Goji is therefore a supportive ingredient.

What is Lycium barbarum seed oil?

This is oil extracted from goji berry seeds. It primarily provides nourishing fatty acids and is found, for example, in lip balms, where it keeps the lips supple.

Can I combine goji with retinol?

Yes, goji itself doesn't have any special requirements. However, with a product containing retinol, the retinol dictates the routine: introduce it gradually, apply it preferably in the evening, and use sunscreen during the day.

Does goji in a cream work the same way as goji in food?

No. Studies on consuming the berry cannot be applied to the skin. In cosmetics, what matters is the amount, formulation, and stability—and goji usually appears far down the INCI list.