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Preservatives: Why Skincare Needs Them

3 min read Bonsana Redaktion

Small glass bottles with pipettes and clear liquid on a light-colored stone, macro still life

Active Ingredients Glossary · K

INCI: Phenoxyethanol · Sodium Benzoate · Potassium Sorbate · Benzyl Alcohol

“Preservative-free” sounds reassuring. But a cream that contains water and has no protection whatsoever would be an ideal breeding ground for bacteria and mold. Preservatives are therefore not a flaw, but rather a key component of product safety. Here you can read about how they are regulated and who should take a closer look.

Fact Sheet
Safety Assessment
Function: Protects against bacteria, yeast, and mold
Required in: Anything containing water—creams, lotions, serums, masks, shampoos
Examples: Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate
Caution: Known allergy to a specific substance
Regulation: Only approved ingredients, with maximum limits

Why do cosmetics need preservatives?

Microorganisms can grow wherever there is water. A cream is touched with the fingers, stored in a humid bathroom, and opened repeatedly over the course of weeks. Without protection, germs could multiply inside it—the product spoils, develops an odor, or changes color, and in the worst case, it can irritate the skin or eyes. Water-free products, such as pure oils, balms, or lipsticks, on the other hand, often require less or no preservatives at all.

The Most Common Preservatives

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives and is found in many serums, masks, and lotions. You may be familiar with sodium benzoate and potassium sorbate from food products: they’re also used there as preservatives and frequently appear together in cosmetics. Benzyl alcohol acts as a preservative and is also a fragrance ingredient. In addition, there are substances like 1,2-hexanediol or ethylhexylglycerin that help inhibit bacterial growth but are not legally classified as preservatives.

What the Rules Say

Four out of five bars: In the EU—whose cosmetics regulations Switzerland closely follows—only preservatives listed on a positive list may be used. A maximum concentration is set for each of these substances, sometimes with additional restrictions. The limits are based on safety assessments and are adjusted as new findings emerge—as a result, certain substances have been restricted or completely banned in recent years. Allergies to preservatives do occur, but they are substance-specific: Anyone who reacts to a particular substance should avoid that specific one.

Easy to combine

✓ Clean fingers or a spatula—protect the product in the jar

✓ Pump dispensers and tubes—less contact with air and hands

✓ Cool, dry storage—not right next to the shower

Note

! The symbol with the open jar, such as “12M,” indicates the shelf life after opening

! If a product suddenly smells or looks different, it’s best to replace it

Myth debunked: “Products without preservatives are always better”—not necessarily. Water-based products without preservatives must be protected in other ways, such as through single-use portions or special packaging. And “preservative-free” often just means that substances are used that aren’t legally classified as preservatives.

Preservatives in the BONSANA lineup—for example

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Related entries: Hyaluronic acid · Niacinamide · Glycerin

Frequently Asked Questions About Preservatives

Why do cosmetics need preservatives?

Because bacteria, yeast, and mold can multiply in water-based products. Preservatives keep creams, lotions, and serums stable and hygienic throughout their shelf life.

Is phenoxyethanol a cause for concern?

Phenoxyethanol is approved in the EU and Switzerland up to a specified maximum concentration and is one of the most commonly used preservatives. Allergic reactions to it are considered rare.

What does “preservative-free” mean?

It means the product contains no substances from the official list of preservatives. Often, other antimicrobial agents or special packaging take on this role.

How long does an opened product last?

This is indicated by the symbol of an open jar on the packaging, for example, “12M” for twelve months. If a product smells or looks different, you should replace it sooner.