Active Ingredients Glossary · B
INCI: Bakuchiol
Bakuchiol is the plant-based active ingredient that has emerged as a competitor to retinol: It is said to reduce wrinkles and make the complexion appear more even—without the typical irritation associated with retinol. The first comparative studies are promising, even though the data is more recent and limited than that for the original.
What is Bakuchiol?
Bakuchiol is extracted from the seeds of the babchi plant (Psoralea corylifolia), which has long been used in Ayurvedic and Chinese traditions. Chemically, bakuchiol has nothing in common with retinol—it is not a vitamin A derivative. It gained attention because laboratory studies showed that it activates some of the same signaling pathways in the skin as retinoids: It can stimulate collagen production and support cell renewal.
Bakuchiol is therefore often marketed as "plant-based retinol." The correct description is: It is a distinct active ingredient with retinol-like effects—and a key advantage in terms of tolerability for everyday use.
Effectiveness: What's Been Proven
Three out of five bars—and this is primarily due to a widely cited randomized controlled trial from 2018: 0.5% bakuchiol applied twice daily performed comparably to 0.5% retinol on wrinkles and age spots over twelve weeks—with significantly less irritation and flaking. In addition, there are smaller studies pointing in a similar direction. To be honest: The number of studies is limited, the sample sizes are small, and there is a lack of long-term data spanning decades, as is the case with retinoids. Bakuchiol is therefore a viable option for gentle anti-aging—though retinol continues to offer the best-documented efficacy.
Application & Combination
The major practical advantage: Bakuchiol does not make the skin more sensitive to light and can also be used in the morning—unlike retinol, which is traditionally part of the evening routine. A build-up period is usually not necessary. Daily sunscreen remains essential, if only for the sake of the anti-aging effect.
Good Combinations
✓ Vitamin C – can be combined in the morning for radiance and protection
✓ Hyaluronic acid & moisturizer – a good base, no interactions
✓ Niacinamide – helps promote an even skin tone
Note
! The body of research is more recent and limited compared to retinol—keep expectations realistic
! Despite its good reputation, consult a doctor during pregnancy—data is limited
Bakuchiol in the BONSANA lineup
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View face serums →Frequently Asked Questions About Bakuchiol
Is bakuchiol just as effective as retinol?
In the most important comparative study, 0.5% bakuchiol and 0.5% retinol performed comparably on wrinkles and age spots over twelve weeks—with less irritation. Overall, however, retinol has been researched much more extensively.
Can I use bakuchiol during the day?
Yes. Bakuchiol does not make the skin more sensitive to light and can be used in the morning and evening. Daily sunscreen is still recommended, though.
How long does it take for bakuchiol to work?
Allow for eight to twelve weeks of regular use before assessing visible changes in wrinkles or dark spots—this also corresponds to the duration of the available studies.
Is bakuchiol safe to use during pregnancy?
Bakuchiol is often cited as an alternative to retinol during pregnancy, but the available data on this is limited. If in doubt, consult your doctor before using it.
